Category: Style
The Sapeurs.. xxx
Suave and sophisticated, the title Sapeur comes from la SAPE, an abbreviation of Société des Ambianceurs et des Personnes Élégantes – The Society of Tastemakers and Elegant People. Over the past twenty five years it’s emerged as a brightly coloured African subculture inspired by the myth of Parisian elegance and Dandyism.
Mostly centred around Brazzaville and Kinshasa, the adjacent Capitals of the Republic of Congo and the Democratic Republic of Congo respectively, the Sapeurs cultivate their refined gentility amid their countries war-torn, extreme poverty.
But despite this nations history, Sapeurs are pacifists – for them style is about being respectful with a pure attitude and impeccable manners.
Creativity is paramount – although many will spend whatever they have on clothes, it’s not about the money, it’s about style and being flamboyant in oneself, despite the circumstances.
(All the pictures above by Baudouin Mouanda)
They are ordinary people, with ordinary jobs who break free by transforming their dusty pavements into fabulous fashion runways. But the truth is these characters are teachers, creatures of spirit with a powerful, requisite flair and passion.
(Photo by Hector Mediavilla)
Sharp and sly, like poetry in motion with their hearts turned to the sun, they demand that there can be great riches in small spaces..their irresistible sense of pride says you can be whatever you want to be…and sometimes we all need that fairytale.
(Photo by Hector Mediavilla)
A very short documentary – worth watching! x
To those that say their style is part of a legacy of cultural imperialism and a post-colonial carry-over they say:
‘White people invented the clothes..but we turned them into an art form’
Personally, I doff my bright yellow trilby to them.
Laters, Kate x
Anything Goes..
There’s no getting away from it – part of the breathless anticipation of any Fashion Week are the Street Style photos of the good, the bad and the fabulous pretending they’re unaware they’re the players in their own performance.
An unfortunate accident? Or the latest accessory?
Because ultimately, even with this small number of elite beings, they’ll only be a select few who can really tick the boxes and dress the way you want to feel.
But they still all know to carry themselves with extreme confidence, no matter what they feel like inside..and as perception becomes more important than truth it makes these some of the most interesting, schizophrenic moments to secretly observe.
We’re no longer in the land of princesses. What we wear, even to posh events is becoming more generalised, more ‘every day’. Which is why these flashes of inspiration are so important – they’re within our grasp.
But innovative and desirable is still the holy grail.
(All photos by Tommy Ton from Style.com)
The pictures tell us: To change our spots, all we need to do is change our skins. Essentially, they give us hope.
Laters, Kate x
Gucci SS14 x
This sinks into your bones like fairy dust.
A flavour of the eighties except the more conventional ending flashes past.
A silky intensity exuding pure class, you get a sense of high..and those shoes certainly help…
It’s like catching fire..
Laters, Kate x
Isa Arfen x
A mixture of new and found, Isa Arfen is the London-based label started in 2011 by Serafina Sama.
Serafina graduated from Central Saint Martins School of Art & Design in 2006 and has since built up an impressive portfolio of experience: Marni, Lanvin, Marc Jacobs, Chloe, Louis Vuitton, Acne and Charlotte Olympia. It shows.
The label captures and enhances the subtle shift in the fashion mood – Soft but with feminine confidence..A walking statement of drama without causing offence.
Serafina says: ‘To me, fashion is about desire, beauty and fun. It’s not about dressing up in a costume. Isa Arfen is about a real woman dressing for her real life and really enjoying it.’
Edible..
Charismatic, eclectic, elegant and exuberant…it lights me up like a Lee Broom light.
Laters, Kate x
Rachel Comey x
Rachel Comey is a Master in the art of adding loose without adding weight.
So maybe it’s not surprising that she originally started out by designing Menswear. She swapped to Womenswear inspired by the number of women sneaking into the Menswear section to buy her clothes. She’s never looked back.
She looks to the past and is inspired by vintage with little sips of rebellion.
It’s not about showily declaring yourself.
But rather great riches in small spaces.
Laters, Kate x
Air & Grace x
It was two years ago that Claire Burrows first started talking to me about her ideas to create her own shoe label. She’s always had a thing about shoes and studied at London College of Fashion before going on to create award winning ranges for international footwear brands including Kurt Geiger and Fitflop. With nearly 20 years of experience and insider industry knowledge she has an understanding of footwear that’s second to none. It’s a joy to hear Claire talk about shoes as her passion just pours out – she thinks about every aspect and no stone is left unturned. But that doesn’t make it any easier to escape the security of the 9 to 5 and walk down an unknown road..even if you’re wearing the most comfortable shoes ever.. 
But the lovely Claire is special, brave and courageous and she’s taken that leap of faith, producing her very first range based on her beliefs and intuitive knowledge: As a woman wearing shoes every day Claire firmly believes that shoes should be as comfortable as they are fashionable. 
Air and Grace is Claire’s new baby. Her first range of shoes are a series of ballerina pumps: Luxurious butter soft leathers, modern feminine designs..but most importantly..sumptuous, clever underfoot cushioning in all the right places so your feet don’t have to suffer the knocks of every day life, even when you do. 
With her magic she’s turned the ordinary shoe into gloves for your feet and banned the pain of ‘heel smack’ and ‘ball-of-foot-shock’ forever.
I’ve tried them on..and I can honestly say I didn’t want to take them off!
They really can take the strain out of every day..no matter what life throws at you!!
(And before anyone says ‘congratulations’..this isn’t me!)
Of course this is just the start for Claire – these shoes are literally the first designs hot from the factory – she’s now deep in discussions with buyers and designing an e-commerce site with full social media support, but if you believe like I do that women should support women and that beautiful and practical is a wining combination, please show your appreciation for someone brave enough to set out alone in the big wide commercial world and ‘like’ her Facebook page – every little bit helps. They say the journey of a thousand miles starts with the first step..but at least for Claire with her Air and Grace shoes her steps will always be in style and comfort! Go Claire!
Laters, Kate x
It’s coming…
The rumblings started around 2011 when Hermes walked this one down the runway..
Givenchy did a little number too.
And the odd street style star picked up the vibe.
But this year the noise is getting louder..Spotted at The Row’s Pre-fall 2014 Collection..
Tory Burch SS14, did it more than once..
And now Chanel?
Maybe it’s all been about branding…’Bum’ bag is really such an ugly word. But ‘hipster’ ‘Belt bag’? Far more class..
Mine is permanently attached to my side whether it’s cross body or as a belt bag. Not just because I like the look..but it’s just so practical as well..Compared to the eighties we’re now in the land of miniature and everything fits in perfectly.
All hail the return! Long may it last!
Laters, Kate x
Karen Jessen x
Karen Jessen of the Benu Berlin label has just won The Ecochic Design Award 2013 for her innovative use of reconstruction techniques. Created from a mixture of waste and imagination each piece is a discovery – just like her list of ingredients above…
There’s gently rocking inspiration.
And a big focus on structure: Each piece is lovingly crafted.
There are rules – and then Karen sets about breaking them with confidence.
The best intentions need that bit of passion – and a bit of support: For her prize she’ll now design the 2015 ‘Recycled Collection by Esprit’ for Esprit’s global retail in mid 2014 – and I’ll be watching out for what she does..
Laters, Kate x
Sunnies Shine x
If you think about it, sunglasses are the ultimate workhorse of the wardrobe, crossing seasons with effortless ease and adding pep to any outfit.
In previous years I’ve baulked from spending large amounts on a pair only to see them broken or lost on the flotsam of daily family life, but now?
I can hear their siren call.
And my gut says they’re going to be the BIG thing this summer. Time to bite the bullet….
Laters, Kate x
Winter is Coming..
I freely admit I am behind the curve on the whole Game of Thrones phenomena. Forsooth, I only devoured my first box set after New Year..but I’m learning fast. The obessesion has bitten and Season 2 is already underway – of course the joy of coming late to the party? There’s no horrible wait for next Seasons to start (yet)..they’re all lined up like the most delectable dishes at a banquet. But it’s not only the storyline, I’m also smitten by the fashions..and it’s the men’s rather than the ladies: The leather, the studding, the macho winter layering and enormous shaggy shoulders. I lust. A little bit of searching revealed that Helmut Lang’s 2012 Fall Collection was inspired by the series. And how very very appropriate it looks as the Polar Vortex attempts to do it’s worst. I’d bet good gold that that sheepskin coat above would be ready to fight beside any wolf in a storm…
(A touch of the Katniss Everdeens? I wonder what came first?)
And then there’s Chloe Pre-fall 2014, showing that layering can be warm, furry and coloured. Might need a pair of woolly tights though..
For this night..and all nights to come..
Laters, Kate x
Maison Bentley Style 