Category: fashion comment

Unrequited Love..

editors-favorite-makeup-party-tricks-sasha-pivovarova

(Photo from Vogue, taken by Karim Sadil of Sasha Pivovarova)

How much do I love this jumper? Let me count the ways…impeccable diction, great bones, classic monochrome, exquisite texture…it grabs you with the first 1940’s-mashed-with-1980’s reference and refuses to let go: A stylish classic with a sea-change of direction.

Styled with white pleated trousers and the Celine inspired one-earing, it’s deadpan coolness with a wink.

My love is hard to hold back..and impossible to shake off..If only I knew who designed it..

Laters, Kate x

Cracking Curves..

 

81xwP6lpEsL._SL1500_

It’s that time of year again when the beach starts beckoning and thinness is worn as a Designer label.  But why do we always fall for the myth that size defines our worth? I’ve been talking to the inspirational Sarah Clark about all things voluptuous and authentic.  Sarah is Positive Sarah, blogger for FatPhrocks and Wingz, and also in her own right on Gorgeously Full Fat. She is a fat and fabulous, fashion-loving freelance writer with a novel, Viva Voluptuous in the shops NOW, perfect for a summer giggle and banishing those beach babe fears…

 

Do you think the term ‘plus size’ is offensive…is it the same as ‘she’s beautiful for her age’ – i.e. words that are surplus to requirement?

Actually – not really. It’s mildly irritating but it doesn’t really offend me as at the moment there’s no way of knowing whether something comes in your size without some kind of extra label. If all clothes, or at the very least a wider range, cane in a bigger size range, incorporating the 26 as well as the 6, the ‘plus size’ label would become completely obsolete because you’d just have ‘sizes’. But because bigger women are catered for so abysmally by most high street fashion (and couture of course, which is arguably even worse) at the moment there’s still a need to define a collection as being plus size. I’m more offended by ‘you’d be pretty if you weren’t so fat’ which is a bit similar to the ‘beautiful for her age’ backhanded compliment. If you’re beautiful, you’re beautiful. Weight, age, size, colour don’t come into it.

 

pugs (2)

(Betty from Pamper and Curves)

In your opinion do you think anyone should be able to wear anything regardless of size…or should women just stick to what suits them?

You know, style is so subjective that I think women should wear whatever they feel good in. There used to be so many prescriptive fashion rules for fatties; no horizontal stripes, no bold patterns, and I even read something recently online suggesting that fat women should make sure they have pretty feet because it gives people something attractive that takes the focus away from their (presumably ugly) fat bodies. I mean, WTF is that all about? At the same time, in some body positive circles there’s a lot of pressure on big women to ‘let it all hang out’ and not all of us are happy with that. It’s been so long since I wore a bikini, in fact, I think I was about eight, that even if I had the ‘ideal’ figure, I wouldn’t feel comfortable showing my midriff off. It’s up to the individual; wear whatever makes you feel good, and don’t be pressurised into adjusting your style to suit other people’s ideas of what looks good. People like Betty from Pamper and Curves, or Leah from Just me, Leah play around with their look and always look fabulous, nobody tells them to stick to black or not to wear leggings!

JUST ME LEAH GREY SPARKLE 1

(Leah from Justmeleah)

 

3. I think shape plays an important part in choosing the right clothes – are there brands out there that understand shape and are still fashion aware?

Generally, it’s the plus size brands that seem to ‘get’ the shape issue. There are exceptions to the rule, but if you buy a dress in an 18 that’s been designed for a size 10, that little extra bit of fabric isn’t necessarily going to make it suit a larger body. I’ve thought for a long time that one of the reasons couture designers don’t design for larger bodies as a rule is that…it’s harder! Designers like Michelle Ellis of FatPhrocks really know what it’s like trying to find fashion that’s a bit different. She designs for tall, plus sized women and are spot on, whereas even with taller versions of average clothes, they sometimes just don’t quite look right. It’s a lot easier to get a dress to hang properly on a body that’s straight up and down, because there’s nothing in the way of the shape of the outfit. But try doing the same with an 18 or a 20 and it’s a different story. For a start, we all have different shapes; some fat women are hourglass, some apple, some pear. Some of us have huge boobs and a big tummy but slimmish legs. No, it’s a lot easier to design for a slim woman, catwalk wise, because they know it will look the same on all the identikit models.

model_121

(Tess Munster)

 

4. Who are your plus size girl (see…falling into the label trap) style icons and why?

I’ve already mentioned Betty Pamper; she is a real style icon to me, I follow her blog avidly because the way she puts her looks together is just phenomenal. She always looks so groomed and so damn gorgeous. Leah from Just me, Leah is another one, she’s a fashion blogger and completely unapologetic for being large. She also blogs on health and body positivity, and a recent post on body confidence was just so spot on I wish that all teenage girls could read it. Two more; Tess Munster is just like a plus size version of Jessica Rabbit. She’s stunning, she’s faced bullying throughout her life but then she thought “You know what, f*** this” and turned it on its head to become a plus size model. The woman is GORGEOUS, and a real inspiration to anyone who thinks being very fat means that you sit around in tatty leggings and a stained tee all day. Lastly, I love Lisa Lister. She was recently featured in Cosmo Body (July) in her full on beehive and tatt-splashed glory, talking about how she gave up diets and found happiness. She’s so positive and full of energy, she inspires me all the time, and I LOVE her style. She also works with Dove as a Body Image Ambassador, and that has to be celebrated.

 

5. What would you prefer – shops/brands that specifically catered for you – or acceptance across all shops?

That’s actually a really tricky question. What I don’t want to see is just a couple of extra sizes tagged on just to keep the fatties happy, because it would just be an afterthought. I’d love to have more choice on the high street. Bigger women have trouble finding clothes in many towns; in my own they’ve just shut down the local Evans, New Look stopped stocking their Inspire range and the only places you can get clothes over a size 18 are a few concessions in Debenhams, or Marks & Spencer. The other thing that’s annoyed me for a long time is why stores like Next who have clothes in size 20,22 and 24 only usually have up to an 18 on display. Yet, they will have the size 6 out. So in convoluted reply, I would like more targeted plus size options in existing shops, and a few more plus size shops on the high street would be lovely too, I’m fed up with having to order my clothes online just because I’m fat.

 

6. Why is acceptance across all shops so hard – particularly when you look at the average size of UK women?..

That one I really can’t answer. My opinion is that fat isn’t ‘aspirational’ enough to warrant attention from the fashionistas, nobody WANTS to be fat, so why display clothes on fat mannequins or cater for larger people in designer or even high street stores? It’s as if they want our money, so they’ll cater for us behind the scenes like Next, making us order the larger sizes online so we don’t have to take up room in their shops! Page 2 of 3Page 3 of 3Talking of taking up room, not that I go into Top Shop very often, but younger shops like Top Shop and River Island are so tightly crammed that fat people can’t even squeeze though the racks in some shops! I think it’s probably a ploy to keep the chubbies away from their lovely tiny clothes personally, but they are missing a trick. Get Beth Ditto or someone in and get working on a collection for big, younger women, and they’ll get loyalty from a completely new section of the market. There’s so few young plus sized fashion options in shops that it’s ridiculous.  I’d love to see the them –vs- us mentality that seems to be all pervasive at the moment disappear up its own backside and be replaced by a tolerant, inclusive acceptance that bodies come in all sizes and it’s actually OK.  aND I’d love to see more designers like Michelle Ellis of FatPhrocks, designers who understand the needs of tall and plus size women and design individual, unusual clothes that cater for the people who actually wear them, rather than being identi-copies of the slim ranges in the shops.

 

7. Magazines also claim that their content has to be ‘aspirational’ – What do you say to that?

In my dreams I’d love to start an intelligent magazine for women that includes women of all shapes, sizes, ethnicities and abilities….with everything from fashion to philosophy and food, which didn’t treat women like idiots, airheads or vacuous bimbos who can’t do anything without taking a selfie or actually CARE what Katie Price is doing!

 

Sarah, I salute you.

Laters, Kate x

 

Button up.. x

_ON_0358.683x1024

Pheobe Philo has done it again.  With her Fall 14 RTW Collection, she’s stood outside the circle and injected that tiny little something which like the flapping of a butterflies wing, goes on to rock the very foundation stone of perceived style: Should buttons by symmetrical?

_ON_0394.683x1024

I’m a symmetry girl me: Don’t get me wrong – I love the unexpected, I embrace the fun…but buttons? Don’t they look like a mistake if they’re out of alignment?…or not…? (And there’s that one earring thing to contend with too..)

_ON_0005.683x1024

Quirky or subverted? A quiet act of rebellion or just plain wrong?  A new signature out of the trap of mediocrity and a new escape route from containment?…or does it actually make the hairs on the back of your neck stand on end?

_ON_0021.683x1024

Or is this the phase where you first look in horror…then slowly digest…before finally realising it’s the best thing since sliced bread? (those shoes!)

_ON_0063.683x1024

 

Or are their some things that even the great Pheobe Philo can’t change…?

Laters, Kate x

Bring Back Bjork!

slide_339572_3479993_free

(All photos Huffington Post)

Who could forget? Taken in  2001…when stars were prepared to be human and dress for themselves…and give us something to truly talk about..

slide_339572_3480000_free

1969 – Barbara Streisland

slide_339572_3479980_free

1999 – The wackiness that is Celine Dion

slide_339572_3479979_free

1996 – Our own Kate Winslet, still rough around the edges…

slide_339572_3479978_free

1990 – Kim Basinger..never really got the hang of Oscar night…

slide_339572_3479977_free

1989 – Demi Moore – striking out..sort of..

slide_339572_3479974_free

2003 – Hilary Swank..less swank..more net..

slide_339572_3479973_free

1986 – The indomitable Cher

We bow down to you – come back! All is forgiven!

Laters, Kate

Celine v Primark

celine-1-sized-1

 Celine SS14, September 2013.

Screen Shot 2014-01-15 at 15.14.54

Primark…WHAT THE?

The meteoric rise of the UK High Street has meant we’ve come to expect, even accept the inevitable seeping of ideas into the mainstream.  Call it ‘homages’ ‘interpretations’ or ‘rip-offs’ they’ve become a part of every day life as we all try to find ready to wear alternatives to haute couture. But when is the creep beyond acceptable? When does it become insidious and sleazy? I’m no splatter blood expert but surely Primark are taking the piss with this latest offering…

The excuse often used is that copying is the sincerest form of flattery..it’s copied because it is relevant, well-liked and successful…but please explain this to the artisan seamstresses when they lose their jobs to virtual slave labour and industrial machines as these retail giants reduce all around them to lowest common denominator in their drive to make money.

They say they can’t steal away customers because the Designer Brands are something us mere mortal people can’t afford….So go on..make it un-special for us for those rare times when we can make the stretch and buy less but buy better.

But more to the point…this is a ‘rip-off’ of a current Celine Collection, one that’s only arriving in the shops now for a Spring that has yet to happen –  will image-conscious women honestly want to buy these designer pieces if they think they’re going to be mistaken for wearing Primark? Take a step back..a  Designer Fashion label is not a chorus of reverential whispers, it still has to make money to survive.  The high prices it charges represent financial and emotional investment, labels using their money to grow the best talent with that rare ability to look at things in a thousand new ways and push boundaries. They also support teams of highly skilled individuals who are Masters of their Craft in sewing, embroidery, beadwork and much more besides (you only have to look at a behind the scenes video of Valentino to see what I mean) Skills that could be lost for ever if they aren’t valued and nurtured. Which means that if Celine’s sales are hit by ‘interpretations’  then these ‘copies’ are not only thieves in the night but they potentially damage future creativity as well.

Meanwhile Primark has no interest in being a brand with a proud sense of Self, they have no wish to win prizes for originality or innovation but instead act like a selfish adolescent: What’s yours is mine and what’s mine is mine, greedily sucking the life-blood from creative hearts like commercial vampires, their only concern being the ripe size of their profits.

So what’s a luxury brand to do? Is a raised eyebrow tempered with sarcasm enough? No. They really need to stand up and stop the ripping-off-machine raping the risk-takers and the blue-sky thinkers. As much as it’s a feminine label, I’d love Pheobe Philo to grow balls and slap an injunction on Primark for their pure audacity and say enough is enough.  Which sounds great. Except for the slow, complicated, highly expensive legal system that makes this a virtual impossibility.

Is there another solution?

Yes – Change the outdated, outmoded spectacle of the ‘Season in advance’ of the Fashion Show Timetable that spectacularly hands over, tied up with the most beautiful bows possible, every designers hard fought for ideas  and effectively gifts them to their parasitic enemies with a clear six months to ‘homage’ at leisure the very best of the best.  There is no other industry that would put up with this outrage – so why does the Fashion Industry?

Laters, Kate x

Be my Valentino x

LUX_5258.683x1024The dinner gong has sounded with Valentino’s succulent SS14 Collection.

LUX_5367.683x1024

It’s captivating thoughts turned into visual chocolate.

LUX_5248.683x1024The details are like the feathers of a humming bird.


LUX_5220.683x1024
But…

LUX_5305.683x1024And there is a but…

LUX_5215.683x1024Would you wear this on a hot summers day?…Or even a spring one?

LUX_5226.683x1024Do the colours sing beach, sunshine and easy living?

LUX_5285.683x1024No? So who is the Emperor in his new clothes?

LUX_5291.683x1024

The punters? The magazines?..or the out of date fashion industry?

Laters, Kate x

The Best of British x

coat-129-trousers-129-jumpe

Andy Murray has won Wimbledon!!!! Yayyyyyyy! (Do you KNOW how many times I have suffered, truly suffered watching Wimbledon?) The Lions won their tour (Whooo hooo! Nice lead up to the World Cup lads…shame you’ll all be on different teams) and Chris Froome is wearing the yellow jersey in the Tour de France (I am a Tour nut. Sad but true. Go Sky!) What’s more the sun is finally smiling: Britain is cresting a wave..and good ol’Marks and Spencer are keen to get in on the act..Best-of-British-mands-vogue-25-5jun13-pr_b_240x360

The Marks and Spencer AW 2013-14 Best of British Line will land in selected stores in October and I for one will be watching with interest.  Like us, they want everything to be manufactured in the UK – Jumpers from Hawick in Scotland, Outerwear in Manchester, Shoes in Northampton with Goodyear welted soles..which means a higher price-point (coats £299, trousers £129, shoes £165 etc), lower margins and an emotional plate-shift away from chasing the fast fashion phenomenon of the High Street.  The big question: Will the public buy-in and buy it?

dress-159

Like many Brits, I’ve always had a soft spot for M&S and have found the destruction of their chore values some what soul destroying..timeless, classic, quality was down trodden in the rampage of the decision makers seemingly more eager to get close to the flame of pile it high, sell it cheap.

jaCKET-199TROUSERS-129

But fresh from this stuttering nervous breakdown Best of British is strong and striking with distinct and praise-worthy heritage references.

Marks_model_shot_1_2578108a

Best-of-British-mands-vogue-12-5jun13-pr_b_118x177

I’ve missed the repression and reliance on tradition.. I want those pieces in my wardrobe..the ones that melt seamlessly in. The honest truth is, if I want stand-out, I wouldn’t look to M&S and that has always been the case.

Best-of-British-mands-vogue-23-5jun13-pr_b_118x177

Now they are toying with ennui and affluence.

marksandspencer_98201449306

Opulence with restraint.

marksandspencer_98201258065

Best-of-British-mands-vogue-3-5jun13-pr_b_118x177

It’s a marriage built on strong visual foundation and an audacious narrative: Buy less, but buy better..a Collection of integrity with a clear message that has my absolute support.

Laters, Kate xxx

Insouciance Celebrated x

m-636-1751-44432-ufiE9AsqN8nH Rosie Assoulin is the new darling on the fashion block and it’s easy to see why with her first 2014 Resort Collection.  More cunning, less solemn with a louche swagger that leaps off the page and into the first passing wardrobe..

m-636-1751-44422-bawkqw8rDUaw I could wear this, knock people’s socks off and still eat lunch. Result.

m-636-1751-44430-RsEJvKn6OuBN

Sharp timing, yet oodles of time.

m-636-1751-44424-BiZOeU1U7LzFBlock colours with contrasting avant-garde shapes. Unconventional, succulent and impressively chic..it’s a joy to see that sexy doesn’t have to equal fitted to within an inch of respiration.  Case in point..but topical..the women tennis players at Wimbledon..

championships-wimbledon-2013-day-one-20130624-140244-938-1

Beautiful, fit girls in their prime…wearing figure hugging clothing that reflects back every lump, bump and bra-strap…loose is imagination..even slightly loose is an optical illusion in progress.

m-636-1751-44414-gyFHH8ESmEfIGive me a secret hint that impresses with personality and promise any day of the week.

Laters, Kate x

Set…Go!!

il_fullxfull.444169293_1cduA huge WELCOME!! to all who come here on this wonderous day of a different kind of blogging..our inaugural BLOG PARTY..come in, have a mojito..

4077_MEDIUMOr something from the strawberry bar..

541061_542015722509173_481082397_n..take the weight off your feet and have a look around!

Our post today is about our Preview launch on Tuesday 11 June..but before that, here is the list of amazing and eclectic blogs for you to ‘Blog crawl’, visit and enjoy!

First of all we want to add in three extra Blogs because they have kindly posted about our launch and spread the love:

www.thewordgirl.co.uk – a lovely, personal post from a great blog

seventy7q.com – beautifully written

dressing4dinner.com – Manuela will be writing her post very soon

alexwillisbray.wordpress.com

44andafourth.wordpress.com

iblog2earn.com

goudenlijntjes.wordpress.com

reasonstobecheerfulandsad.wordpress.com

ledodder.wordpress.com

kittnoir.wordpress.com

floramargaret.com

kazzled.com

rubyfoot.wordpress.com

lauralynnblog.wordpress.com

fashionpup.wordpress.com

vintageattitude.wordpress.com

bisoubisous.com

traveltalesbytash.wordpress.com

thevintagetraveler.wordpress.com

fashionmayann.wordpress.com

herpassionforfashion

sewinggoddess.wordpress.com

laceandcombatboots.com

rachelfashionblogger.wordpress.com

kimberlyakinola.wordpress.com

liabxl.wordpress.com

myasmusingsblog.wordpress.com

sarathewindowshopper.wordpress.com

theshellhammer.wordpress.com

diamondsanddirtdotcom.wordpress.com

purplepincusion.wordpress.com

sweetgingervintage.com

We’ll be seeing you all very soon!

Now us..we wanted to do the Blog Party today to celebrate one thing – the first ever Preview of our new label MasonBentley..and here are a few pics from the night..there’s not a huge amount as I hardly had time to have my camera in my hand..but I hope it gives a flavour of what a fun, buzzy night it was!

IMG_2371 IMG_2374 IMG_2372 IMG_2378 IMG_2382 IMG_2383 IMG_2380 IMG_2387photo IMG_2389

The night was an achievement in itself..but the reality?

It’s just the starting point…

xxxxx

Cultured Collabs..

graphic_06_lowresCultured Collabs. Sounds a bit like a highly contagious and serious fungal infection. But I couldn’t help noticing that the imitable Garance (we love her) has stolen ma thunder copied homaged followed my lead and written a post (OK. It was Alex) with exactly the same title as ours yesterday..but switching it around..

What about Designer collaborations?

Karl Lagerfeld & H&M

Giles Deacon & New Look

Jill Sander & Uniqlo

Roksanda Illincic &Whistles

Holly Fulton & Whistles

They do give us mere mortals the chance to buy some serious bling at High Street Prices…Or by doing this, does the Brand spread itself too thin and lose it’s prestige and exclusivity? Is it worth it for the bun-fight at the cash till? Do you want your designer purchase (let’s pretend) to be the complete shopping experience?? Or are you happy just to own a little bit anyway you can?

Do you wear it? – or treasure it as a potential investment?

P.S. If Team Garance want any more tips on Blog Posts…we’re happy to share….Particularly as we think Garance would look very fetching in one of our collars..

IMG_1471

Laters, Kate x