Category: Designer Brands

Jewels x

Rejina Pyo x

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There’s a quiet freshness about Rejina Pyo’s clothes.

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She says herself ‘When it comes to clothes, I prefer a subtler approach and an element of surprise’.

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With that in mind she resists the temptation for disposable, seasonal pieces.

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Which makes her clothes familiar yet special.

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Less is more: It’s feeding into my subconscious.

Laters, Kate x

Vika Gazinskaya x

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It started with this dress spotted in Pintrest.  So simple yet beautifully crafted – the flow on the placket, the upright collar, the slouch on the shoulder, the choice of colours, the block of colours..the clever, subtle curve on the blocks..

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And so the journey starts discovering a new label and what other delights to feast on.

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That blue at the bottom..

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You’re either a volume person, or you’re not.  I love it.  I love the sense of intrigue that’s added when a person steps inside.  Vita Gazinskaya has it down to a tee.

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Not that volume is the only choice.

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It’s clever cutting and ingenuity.

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A simple palette with bold designs.  Mi piace.

Laters, Kate x

Penny Winter x

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Looking through old posts is a bit like looking through an old address book – you see people you must catch up with again.  I wonder what Penny Winter is doing now..

It’s rare that I don’t use my own words for a post…but then Penny Winter is a rare beast and an endangered species.  I first came across her work when exploring one of my favourite Labels Edun – for their SS14 Collection she designed and produced the horn & crystal neck cuff as worn by Helena Christensen above at her workshop in Nairobi and it piqued my interest.  So in her own words – because nothing should be left out – please meet the incredible Penny Winter…

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‘I was born in Belfast and grew up there through our ‘troubles’. After studying costume design and corsetry at LCF I landed my first job at the Royal Shakespeare Company in Stratford where I was making period costumes and pattern drafting for the theatre.I moved back to London and took a similar job at the English National Opera, before the big move to Kenya.My boyfriend at the time was a journalist and we together with our backpacks moved out without looking back.I fell in love with Kenya, he didn’t and left after a few months. 
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(Photo Touko Sipilainen)
My corserty came into play thereafter, I started a small workshop making  18thcentury shaped corsets from vintage Africa cloth, Bacuba cloth from Congo,raffia from Ivory Coast, snakeskin,fishskin, and Maasai inspired beaded corsets.We,(Paul, my now husband and I) travelled all over central and west Africa on the lookout for interesting trims and weaves.People heard about these unusual pieces and I produced a lot of them  for cool weddings, big parties, and people also just bought them to hang in their bedrooms as art.During this time I worked on films such as The Constant Gardener, The Last King of Scotland,and local tv productions.Since then the workshop has grown and we make clothes for the Kenya jetters and international clients. Our signature coat, the Audrey coat which in it’s original form was  handwoven wool/linen with a beaded cuff, has evolved and can be found this season in dark burgundy velvet.We are also known well for our evening dresses which tend to be of a more bohemian style. Our clients include names such as Uma Thurman,Sylvia Fendi, Helena Christensen, and one of our gowns was at Buckingham palace for William and Kate’s wedding evening party.
 African Jewellery, Tribal Jewellery, Kenyan Jewellery, Raw Amethest Labradite Ruby Rubies Black Turmaline Afican Sapphire White topaz Light horn, Dark Horn, gold, faceted Stone, Labradorite, Bone, Moonstone Agate, Rutilated Quartz,Labradorite ring
In 2007 we were approached by SUNO to start their brand here which we got up and running, we produced the first six collections for them. In addition to  the fashion label I co-design and produce the Ashley Pittman collection sold in Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman, a feat against odds as we are constantly struggling with power outages,water shortages etc, and the day to day chaos of running a large scale, hand crafted business in central Nairobi. I employ around 200 people who take great pride in selling their work I design in top stores around the world.I work closely with our various teams whether it be a horn workshop in rural Kenya, to downtown chaos, busy and noisy, but always fun. I take most pride in the fact I have through relentless efforts, managed to instill the discipline  and work ethic it takes, to our teams to work in the real world, providing top notch products which they can take pride in, on time, without any form of charity.We are competing with world known brands, except without any of the advantages, in Africa.
This is my first solo jewellery collection, outside of my Ngong House boutique, which is my husband’s small hotel, on the outskirts of Nairobi, just under the Ngong Hills. 
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My husband Paul and I have three children.(Charlie, Leyla and Amber). Apart from our work, we have built a clinic and a primary school, thanks to charitable donations in the Kibwezi area of rural Kenya, where we also have a defunct farm and tree plantation.We found the place around ten years ago on a trip back from Kilimanjairo, camped there and now have large safari tents which we use instead of a house.The clinic now has a catchment area of about 70mile radius, there are absolutely no other medical facilities in this area, and we are currently developing a maternity wing. Holidays are mainly at Amber House Lamu, which we restored from a 300year old Swahili villa, in the Old Town Lamu. My passion is sailing so that’s what I do when I go there.’

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She is one of those truly remarkable people that inspires just by breathing.  I can’t help but wonder when a film of her life will be made…

In awe, Kate x

BY. Bonnie Young x

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A woman of my heart as a true renaissance woman, Bonnie Young has worked in the fashion industry, travelled the world, written a book, amassed an important collection of tribal costumes and jewellery (hashtag-very-jealous). Then returned to Donna Karan, to leave Karan to start a children’s line to suddenly realising that women were actually buying the clothes for themselves (pausing now briefly for a cynically raised eyebrow at the momentary snapshot of society today) leading her to start her own label, BY.Bonnie Young. This was her New York Fashion Week debut.

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It was inspired by nature, the South, the Victorians all wrapped up in a velvet bow with a flair for seventies ease.

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It’s flounces with fierce rather than frivolity – there’s nothing over the top or distracting.

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Each texture, cut, silhouette has a reason.

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It’s totally wearable, totally special, grown up, no-nonsense strength.

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She’s one to watch.

Laters, Kate x

Rachel Comey. Homie.

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Rachel Comey stirs the spirit, lifts the soul and happily shakes it.

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Take her Ready to Wear 2017 collection which she staged, in celebration of 15 years in the business, on the streets of NY in reference to her very first catwalk show.

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How apt: The source of inspiration part of the realism.

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With garments in different shapes and sizes reflecting reality.

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Modelled by real people of all genders, age, figure type yet still sewn together with a signature style.

It’s a gauntlet.

Laters, Kate x

Bags of love x

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It was on Wednesday when the realisation struck that I was already down to one pair of school socks between the two of them.  I high-tailed it to Oxford street, partly because I wanted speed…partly because I had an ulterior motive: A few weeks ago, after years of drought, I’d spotted that the stalls selling the touristy type of tat usually avoided had started selling designer rip-offs again.  I’m not a great fan of faking it make it..except if you want to do something a bit radical.
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I’ve been wanting to cover a recognisable designer bag in junk for sometime (sort of inspired by Anya Hindmarch, but also by an earlier random street style photo of someone carrying a battered Louis Vuitton bag covered in sewn on patches).  This is just the start – the idea is to cover as much of the bag as possible.

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Except maybe the back.

Laters, Kate x

J’adore..

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If I was a trust fund babe, this would be my luggage of choice.

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Made in America by Steamline, they’re the perfect marriage of the elegance of yesteryear and the practicalities of modern performance: Handcrafted in leather and brass they swear to be lightweight and durable.

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In the past, Louis Vuitton held the aspirational luggage high ground – but it’s now so tinged with the fake tans of tv reality star wannabees that to say your luggage is LV is like announcing to the world that your coat is fur and your knickers are missing.

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After years of broken zips, plastic and making do, maybe it’s time for a change…these are certainly on the list of lust.

 

Laters, Kate x

Deja Vu..

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I’m in need of distraction: It’s the return day of the crittall door fit and there’s lots of sweaty men and heavy drilling in my house.  At least the doors have made it inside this time (she writes as something loud and metallic crashes to the newly fitted parquet floor). There seems to be an emotional kickback for days like this..You want to pretend that everything is totally normal…but you get to the evening and realise you’ve actually achieved nothing..yet desperately need a large vat of gin – because these days are in fact, the black hole of time suck.

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Time to mentally check out..and what better way than to surf through Pinterest..it was the summer dress above that first caught my roving eye..a simple flowing line, easy to wear but with a modern silhouette and pockets.  So I followed the bread crumbs and discovered Canadian designer Kaelen Haworth.

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Deceptively simple with thoughtful cutting.

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They’re edgy classics with a twist.

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(All pictures from Kaelen Howarth and Pinterest)

And always a joy to see they’re not designed by a man who’s a stick.  Maybe that explains their appeal.

Laters, Kate x

 

 

Ace & Jig x

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Ace and Jig is a fusion of street cred and hippy, contemporary and classic folded together with indian cottons and hand dyed fabrics.

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The label was started by Cary Vaughan and Jenna Wilson and is based in Brooklyn, New York.  The two met more than 10 years ago as fashion design interns and instantly bonded over their shared love of antique textiles..from ancient, french feedsack bags to Japanese boro quilts.

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They believe in the power of the stripe.

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And they believe in being different. Just delicious.

Laters, Kate x