Category: Fashion

Fast and Fearless x

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I have a new hero: Doctor Clare Miller, haematologist. A gloriously gutsy wonder woman who’s size belies her inner and outer strength.  Let me explain why…

For the last 6 weeks, there’s been a reality tv programme on BBC 2 called Special Forces – Ultimate Hell Week, it’s been following 29 civilian but extreme adventure sports people being put through a facsimile of Special Forces selection tasks.  Over  a continual 10 days, the ever dwindling group faced two days with five elite fighting units from around the world: The US Navy Seals, Yamam (Israel’s elite counter terror unit), Navsog (the Philippine’s Special Forces), the exquisitely menacing Spetnaz of Russia and the British SAS, all with the aim of extracting a final winner.

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It was a trip to the dark side.  Each unit had their own unique way of forensically inflicting gruelling, soul-sapping situations to expose vast wells of pain and expose any mental weakness.

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The final was on Sunday..and just 6 people remained, including 2 women.  Not that this was set up as men v women, despite none of the elite forces allowing women in their ranks.  Instead it was about opportunity and equality – the women doing exactly the same as the men.  After 9 days, another night of no sleep and intensive interrogation by the British SAS, 3 remained – one woman, two men:

Miller: High energy, high pressure, fearless, pragmatic, brainy and only 5 ft 4 and weighing 8 stone 7lbs (55 kg).

Bent: The giner ninja complete with deadpan coolness and a wink.

Brassington: A carbon copy action man made real.

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Immediately they had to run their final race – 15 km over Welsh mountains, carrying 20kg packs, navigating themselves and answering questions enroute with wrong answers encurring time penalties.  The SAS guy was looking forward to this one as he didn’t believe a woman had the strength to finish.

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Miller came in first.

Bent second.

Brassington third.

They were congratulated and then told SAS guy would need to talk to the colleagues who’d seen them through the full 10 days before making a decision. It felt like the perfect opportunity to opt out of a potentially difficult political decision.

They said of Miller: It’s changed our view on women.

They said of Bent:

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Who turned up on the first day in a pair of flowery shoes, never judge a book by it’s cover.

They said of Brassington: He’s perfect SAS material.

 

So who did they want to win? They said, no question, it had to be ‘The Machine’.  Day in, day out, The Machine would get the job done, no matter what. Except we didn’t know who The Machine was.

 

Until they announced the winner……..

 

The deserving, the mindblowing, the one and only Dr. Clare Miller!

 

Go that woman! I bow down to your utter brilliance and determination – There’s not many people in this world who can make the army eats it’s words. You didn’t just have to be good..you had to be made of titanium.

Laters, Kate x

Ai Weiwei

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On Friday I went to The Royal Academy of Arts to experience their Ai Wei Wei exhibition and attempt to understand what makes China’s most recognisable yet contentious (Google his name in China and nothing will come up) artist tick.  It’s a brilliant and interesting exhibition where each exhibit, like the best art, holds a powerful message that’s greater than the sum of it’s parts.

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Like ‘Straight’ a gigantic installation made of 150 tons of rebar salvaged from the site of the 2008 Sichuan earthquake and then painstakingly straightened.  A labour of love, now laid out in broken undulations recalling fault lines, it tells of sub-standard building practises, even in the provinces schools, due to rapid expansion and state greed..and the tragic consequence that had for thousands of lives.

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‘Souvenir from Shanghai’ is made from the concrete and brick rubble saved from the artist’s studio which was destroyed under a trumped up planning charge by the authorities.  Through the art, the story is told and immortalised.

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‘He Xe’ both means river crab and harmonious..’harmonious’ is a key concept with the Communist party with their continued aim for an harmonious society no matter what. This play on words, exquisitely made from porcelain and hand painted, is a cultured two fingers to the governments attempts at quashing freedom of expression.  It’s also what 1,000 of Weiwei’s friends feasted on the night before the Shanghai studio was razed to the ground.

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‘Coloured Vases’ shows twelve Han and four neolithic vases covered in bright, industrial paint. It questions what we value and why…antiquity? commerciality? tradition? or change?

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The art is compelling and full of contradictions, sub clause upon sub clause: Manmade versus nature versus human nature versus control, every element down to the source of materials a piece of the puzzle. Yet, I have to confess to a grain of sand in my shoe.  Weiwei’s talent is bringing the human touch to conceptual art and it’s certainly a powerful thing to be able to make ugly things beautiful and change rubble into gold.  But many of the exhibits were stunningly crafted out of prized and expensive material like this pair of immaculately carved jade handcuffs, quietly stating that beautiful things can be ugly. But the pleb in me wanted to know where the money came from to purchase such expensive materials? and more importantly, who were the master craftsmen who physically created these pieces?

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We all know that large studios umbrella the workers beneath, but who actually carved the marvel that is this marble push chair above? In an age when we don’t have time (and possibly the money) for fine craftsmanship, it was a modern joy to see. Maybe it was an administrive error – at Weiwei’s sunflower seed installation in the Tate, every worker was acknowledged so call me a cynic, but I just had a feeling there was a hint of ego stalking these galleries.

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That’s not to say you shouldn’t go or it’s power is dimmed: Rarely has such simplicity sung with such complexity and great calmness.

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Go – because if nothing else, it confirms the truth that art will always conquer censorship by the simple strength of it’s vision, the connections and the memories it makes.

 

Laters, Kate x

Another Garde x

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One of the great joys from this daily ritual of Blogging are the people you meet, drawn together from across the world through the magic of the internet and the love of great design.  It’s how I met Soumountha  – a very funny, fearless and edgy French-Lao-mum-to-3-kids-slash-blogger-and-entrepreneur who’s been looking for the perfect vehicle to focus her creative high energy, because Soumountha is a tigress with a deep motherlove who knows that to feed herself spiritually she needs that creative outlet.   And now, with a perfectly executed flying kick, she has leapt into the fray with her own online boutique for emerging fashion brands: Another Garde.   I wanted to know more…so we in between her hectic schedule we sat down, dressed in our imaginary finest with the perfect bottle of virtual wine to cut to the chase on the latest about her new fashion baby…

I’m so excited you’ve opened your own online boutique! I looove you’re style – so tell me, Soumountha, do you have an imaginary woman you’re selling to? 
Yes. She is the unflappable woman. I like to describe her as ‘a complex, witty, mature, free and confident woman who breaks ceilings and kicks out of boxes, screams and smiles, has chipped nails and remains elegant and wonderfully modern.’  I like to think that she is owning her imperfections with inner and quiet confidence and a ‘so what?’ attitude.
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What do you think she would she eat for breakfast…and where??
She would probably not eat anything for breakfast because she hardly had the time to comb her hair, but then would have a hearty omelette and a cappuccino – her strong espresso days are behind her – around 10.30am.  She would eat this at work or at her local bodega trying to sort out the beautiful mess that is her life with her IPhone…hahahaha! I’m getting deja vu!
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What did you look for in your emerging designer’s? 
That’s a tough one. It is a very complex process that includes both tangible and less tangible factors.
Another Garde wants to develop partnerships with brands that are interested in releasing styles throughout the year – just like we are doing with our private label, Another Garde. The designers, Enda (Enda.us) and Moses Nadel (mosesnadel.com) on our site fall also into this category.  The biggest challenge is to stand out in the crowd and I feel that as a group, we increase our chances of success if we leverage our resources and collectivize our risks etc. So being a team player is a key aspect of being part of Another Garde 🙂
That does not mean that we do not work with brands that are operating within the Fashion calendar – some brands are too amazing not to work with.
So more generally I think –
– their aesthetic needs to hang well with other designers’ viewpoint. I do favor a somewhat unaffected elegance, feminine and feminist silhouettes, great details and finishes, and minimalist cuts.
– I like designers who have an acute understanding of who they are and who they are not and what it is they are saying to the world. Schai (schaischai.com), a brand that we will soon feature on our site, is a universe in itself . You get drawn into it through her designs but also her words, her imagery, her story and her personality. The moment I set my eyes on her creations I fell in love full stop. She is also a pretty kick ass woman #swoon
– I love designers who are creative and resourceful from a marketing perspective to a design development perspective. For example, I have been stalking Linie (linienyc.com) for a while now because the designer is excelling at zero waste pattern making.
– And last but not least, I only work with designers who share our values when it comes to mature and confident women i.e. Designers who celebrate these women’s needs, their achievements and aspirations and understand what ageing with grace means and requires. In short, there is an underlying feminism behind what we do at Another Garde so I would probably not work with creatives who do not get it. (At this point I have to stand up and applaud..woah! woah! woah! finally!)
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How did you find your designers? can anyone approach you?
We are doing a lot of scouting to find brands and also get referrals so YES anyone can approach me soumountha@anothergarde.com
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The fashion industry is notoriously tough – do you think the young/new designer of today has the time to learn the ropes of this industry or are they, with the level of competition out there, expected to hit the ground both perfectly formed and running?
Because it is such a competitive industry, I feel that there is a general acceptance that there are more and more valid and legitimate journeys to own and run a label: from launching your first collection straight after fashion school to having a full time design job in a major house while experimenting with your label on the side to returning to work for an established company, if your label is struggling or relying on private orders only.
However, from the customer perspective, mistakes are not easily forgiven. It is competitive out there and it is so important to build trust with your clientele. My take away so far is this: make less creations but make them perfect for the people who really matter to you.
So my answer is yes designers have the time ,if they take this valuable time and develop A, B and C plans in their overall journey as creatives. At the end of the day, you are a creative and there is no lesser way of being one.
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Do you see yourself as a mentor?
Since we are releasing our own collection for the first time, I see myself more as a peer who is experiencing the same journey as some of the other designers on our site: handling cash flow challenges, weighing the pros and cons of bypassing the fashion calendar (on a daily basis but still sticking to my guts for now), going through the ups and downs of collection design and development etc.
Having our own collection is our way to walk the talk but this has also become a truly humbling experience. We are just another brand working hard at finding our women.
Because I want to do my best at articulating partner designers’ vision to our target customers, I do ask a lot of questions. I hope these questions do help them to think hard about their brand, their positioning, their pricing, how they produce and sell etc.
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Whose wardrobe do you lust over?
Phoebe Philo. Clean lines, feminine and masculine silhouettes, chic tonal palette; it is never boring but most importantly it ALWAYS authentic. There is a quiet rebellious character in her wardrobe.
And she is British, so that’s the icing on the cake 🙂
You’re based in New York..Will you be shipping internationally?
It’s something we’re hoping to introduce very soon – watch this space!
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(All Photography by Carolina Palmgren, Styling is Another Garde)
What’s the last thing you bought…and why?
The Zoe dress by Brooklyn-based Swedish designer H.Fredriksson (Hfredriksson.com) (pictured above) who works with sustainable fabrics and creates very modern and perfect silhouettes for women like me who are trying to come to terms with the various changes in their bodies.  All her prints come from her personal drawings and paints. Zoe’s print is a special one because it is a drawing from her late husband who passed away before or during collection development. I was already in love with the dress but when I learnt about the heartache and strength behind the creation I just had to buy it. Helena has kids so this has really touched me: I just cannot imagine what she has been through. Every time I wear it, I feel her strength.
As we feel yours Soumountha! This pocket rocket warrior woman is fighting the couture clash with her flair for the international all beautifully moulded together by the wit and gristle of the streets of New York City and personally…I love it! Go Soumountha!
 
Laters, Kate x
 

 

Go England!

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Charlie supporting England as only Charlie knows how..in a world cup rugby top and a matching earring..

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‘Just the one Mummy, Just the one!’

So Celine it’s scary…

Laters, Kate x

Cover Story x

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They’re fitting our two storey steel frame today and cutting off our electricity, gas and water, which also equals no internet.  So I think to myself..do you think that would worry these characters?

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Hell no!

Laters, Kate x

PS It’s OK Mum – they’ve promised to have some back on by this evening…

Hi Society x

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The perfect conker brown to match the season with authentically tooled leather, Penelope Chilver’s Barbarella Cordoban hi tops are the easywear anywhere shoe with that discerning level of quality and design.

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It’s a luxurious walk on the wild side…

Laters, Kate x

Blue Collar Worker x

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Shrugging on a teddy bear winter coat is the perfect way to embrace the increasingly cutting edge to this colder season.

 

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MiH – The British label based in London, has some of the best – the sort of coats that people can judge you in without knowing you.  And get it right.

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They don’t shout, instead they gently ooze with knowing cool.

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Because good lines and soft textures cleverly jigsawed together make a potent force.

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(All pictures from MiH)

Sometimes the greatest power to dazzle is just by the simplicity of what is there.

Laters, Kate x

It’s a Dirty Job x

For this clip, which I adore, homage and respect must go to Mel Lewis for her recommendation – thank you! It perfectly sums up my life right now.

As a return gift, I give you Michael McIntyre with loft and man drawer explaining the invasive power of stuff which means that George Carlin will be forever relevant…and we can never escape!

Laters, Kate x

Wednesday..

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Happiness..a very dear friend has stepped off the red-eye from the States this morn and is coming to stay! Oh joy!

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Sadness..my house is not at it’s best.

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Happiness..it’s not raining!

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Sadness..I have no kitchen

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Happiness..wine doesn’t need cooking!

Laters, Kate x

Burberry Prorsum x

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Black, gold, beige, military detail, crested insignias, gold buttons and gold chains, all the stalwarts of the power dressing nineties were rejuvenated in Burberry SS16..but with the gas turned to subtle.

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The detailing was beautiful and showed the collaboration between Christopher Bailey and Hand & Lock, the British manufacturer that makes accessories for the Queen’s Horse Guards to perfection. It underlined the exciting mix of Bailey’s continuing relationship with heritage, heritage materials and British manufacturing.

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But step away from the title, look at the colour palette, the materials, the coats..the footwear…and this could be a fall show.

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The inner layers maybe light and airy, but the outer’s are ready for a turn in temperature downwards.

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But then Bailey is one of the few designers to openly agree that the seasons, as a fashion concept, are over. He’s already embracing the quick marriage of shows and ecommerce whereby clothes can be seen on the runway, bought with a click and delivered within weeks, forcing forward the pace of production.

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(Charlie would love these shoes).

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(And the macho-feminine lace).

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The bags..the rucksack with it’s monogrammed initials..

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(All pics from Vogue.com)

And this one will be on many lists of lust because Christopher Bailey is clever, he doesn’t produce warm coats associated with badgers and large dogs.  His aim is for urban, edgy brand carriers – it’s easy wear, ruthlessly recognisable luxury put on a pedestal that we can all pay homage to.

It’s slick fashion candy to prove taste and money..but for me, it’s lost a bit of heart.

Too easy? Should that be a problem?

Laters, Kate x