Black, gold, beige, military detail, crested insignias, gold buttons and gold chains, all the stalwarts of the power dressing nineties were rejuvenated in Burberry SS16..but with the gas turned to subtle.

The detailing was beautiful and showed the collaboration between Christopher Bailey and Hand & Lock, the British manufacturer that makes accessories for the Queen’s Horse Guards to perfection. It underlined the exciting mix of Bailey’s continuing relationship with heritage, heritage materials and British manufacturing.

But step away from the title, look at the colour palette, the materials, the coats..the footwear…and this could be a fall show.

The inner layers maybe light and airy, but the outer’s are ready for a turn in temperature downwards.

But then Bailey is one of the few designers to openly agree that the seasons, as a fashion concept, are over. He’s already embracing the quick marriage of shows and ecommerce whereby clothes can be seen on the runway, bought with a click and delivered within weeks, forcing forward the pace of production.

(Charlie would love these shoes).

(And the macho-feminine lace).

The bags..the rucksack with it’s monogrammed initials..

(All pics from Vogue.com)

And this one will be on many lists of lust because Christopher Bailey is clever, he doesn’t produce warm coats associated with badgers and large dogs.  His aim is for urban, edgy brand carriers – it’s easy wear, ruthlessly recognisable luxury put on a pedestal that we can all pay homage to.

It’s slick fashion candy to prove taste and money..but for me, it’s lost a bit of heart.

Too easy? Should that be a problem?

Laters, Kate x